“It was a good dress, a light, flimsy version of the naval blue, with white about it – no black, no concessions to Mrs Williams, for it was understood that at a ball any woman was allowed to make the best of herself; but where taste, figure and carriage are equal, a woman who can spend fifty guineas on her dress will look better than one who can only spend ten pounds.” – A description of Diana Villers’ dress, Post Captain
Post Captain has much more action on land and involves more civilians (especially ladies) than Master and Commander, so here’s a look at civilian clothing during the Napoleonic Era. This gallery is full of images of extant ladies’ garments from approximately 1775-1820.
Round Gown, Italy, circa 1795
Red figured silk satin with floral motif; blue and yellow silk embroidery at hem; fly fringe and tassel ornamentation. Courtesy of the Kyoto Costume Institute.
Round Gown, Italy, c. 1795
White silk taffeta brocade one-piece dress; green silk and gold embroidery and sequins; pin-tucks at top of front; fly fringe and tassel ornamentation. Courtesy of the Kyoto Costume Institute.
Round Gown, Italy, c. 1795
White muslin one-piece dress with long train; blue and brown cotton and silver embroidery of plant patterns; shirring at top of front; lace decoration around neckline. Courtesy of the Kyoto Costume Institute.
Transitional Empire Dress, Britain, 1795-97
For all its classicized details and shape, this gown retains vestiges of the ancien régime in its open-robe construction. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Transitional Empire Dress, Britain, 1795-97
Back view. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Gown, Britain, 1795-1800
Cotton and linen.
Gown, Britain, 1795-1800
Cotton and linen.
Gown, Britain, 1795-1800
Cotton and linen.
Gown, Britain, 1795-1800
Cotton and linen.
Round Gown, 1795-1800
Round Gown, 1795-1800
Linen.
Wrap Dress, 1795-1800
Muslin wrap dress.
Block Printed Dress, 1797-98
Block printed cotton and flax with a "sprigged" pattern. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Block Printed Dress, 1797-98
Block printed cotton and flax with a "sprigged" pattern. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Block Printed Dress, 1797-98
Block printed cotton and flax with a "sprigged" pattern. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Block Printed Dress, 1797-98
Detail of the "sprigged pattern" on this cotton and flax dress. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Overdress, Britain, 1797-99
Silk and linen Ikat print overdress. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Overdress, Britain, 1797-99
Silk and linen Ikat print overdress. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Overdress, Britain, 1797-99
Silk and linen Ikat print overdress. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Overdress, Britain, 1797-99
Detail of fabric and buttons. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Stockings, England, early 19th century
Yellow silk knit with embroidered blue knit clock. Courtesy of the Kyoto Costume Institute
Fan, China, c. 1800
Reticule, England, c. 1800
Yellow and green silk knit; pineapple shape with trimming of silver beads and tassels. Courtesy of the Kyoto Costume Institute.
Gown, America, c. 1800
Silk and linen. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, America, c. 1800
American silk dress with shawl and fichu.
Dress, America, c. 1800
American silk dress with shawl and fichu, back view.
Evening Dress, France, 1804-05
White cotton mull with whitework embroidery. Originally thought to have been worn by Elizabeth Patterson at her wedding to Jerome Bonaparte, the style dates it as slightly later. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Dress, France, 1804-05
Detail view of whitework embroidery on sheer cotton mull. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Chemise Dress, France, c. 1802
White cotton muslin dress with train; floral embroidery at front panel and hem; drawn work at center front, sleeves and neckline. Courtesy of the Kyoto Costume Institute
Dress, England, c. 1805
White muslin one-piece dress with long train; white-work with small motif. Courtesy of the Kyoto Costume Institute.
Gala Dress, c. 1805
Figured silk with leaf-shaped motif; dress with train; shawl of white silk gauze with woven wool floral pattern, yarn fringe. Courtesy of the Kyoto Costume Institute.
Dress, France, 1805-10
Cotton with silver gilt embroidery, tarnished by age. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, France, 1805-10
Cotton with silver gilt embroidery, tarnished by age. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, France, 1805-10
Cotton with silver gilt embroidery, tarnished by age. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, France, 1805-10
Detail of tarnished silver gilt embroidery. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Gown, France, 1805-1810
Cotton and metallic thread. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Gown, France, 1805-1810
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Gown, France, 1805-1810
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Gown, France, 1805-1810
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Gown, France, 1805-1810
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Gown, France, 1805-1810
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Gown, France, 1805-1810
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Dress, America, 1809
Sheer cotton muslin with woven checkered bodice, train and rows of pintucks at hem. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Dress, America, 1809
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Dress, America, 1809
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Dress, America, 1809
Bodice detail. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Dress, America, 1809
Woven check cotton fabric detail. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Gown, France, 1809
India mull with tambour embroidery. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Gown, France, 1809
India mull with tambour embroidery. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Gown, France, 1809
India mull with tambour embroidery. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, France, 1804-1814
Heavily embroidered cotton. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, France, 1804-1814
Heavily embroidered cotton. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, France, 1804-1814
Heavily embroidered cotton. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, France, 1804-1814
Embroidery detail. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, France, 1804-1814
Hints of nature in the embroidery detail. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, France, 1804-1814
Heavily embroidered cotton. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, France, 1804-1814
Heavily embroidered cotton. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, France, 1804-1814
Heavily embroidered cotton. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Riding Costume ("Amazone"), France, c. 1810
Black wool broadcloth; set of tailored jacket and skirt of appropriate length for horse riding.. Courtesy of the Kyoto Costume Institute
Military Style Redingote, England, c. 1810
Red wool flannel "redingote" with braid and wrapped buttons in Brandenburg style; bag of beige velvet, hand-painted with floral and scenic motif, chain strap; muff and palatine of swans-down. Courtesy of the Kyoto Costume Institute.
Dress, 1808-1812
Olive green wool. Photograph by Mandy Reynolds of Fotoforum.
Day Dress, America, 1810
Cotton with wool thread embroidery. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Day Dress, America, 1810
Cotton with wool thread embroidery. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Day Dress, America, 1810
Cotton with wool thread embroidery. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Day Dress, America, 1810
Cotton with wool thread embroidery. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Cotton Boy's Suit, American, c. 1810
Boy's cream muslin jabot. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Striped Redingote, France, 1810-15
Yellow ocher and cardinal red strip printed plain-weave cotton with matching belt. Courtesy of the Kyoto Costume Institute.
Morning Dress, America, 1806-19
Silk. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Morning Dress, America, 1806-19
Silk. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Morning Dress, America, 1806-19
Silk. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Morning Dress, America, 1806-19
Silk. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, France, c. 1814
Cotton and silk. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, France, c. 1814
Cotton and silk. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, France, c. 1814
Cotton and silk. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, France, c. 1814
Detail of embroidered hem. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, France, c. 1814
With bonnet and spencer. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Spencer, Underbodice and Skirt, c. 1815
Jacket and skirt of red cut velvet with piping and wrapped buttons in hussar style; beige silk satin underbodice. Courtesy of the Kyoto Costume Institute.
Redingote "a la Hussarde", England, c. 1815
White plain-weave cotton; hussar-style Brandenburg piping and pompoms. Courtesy of the Kyoto Costume Institute.
Cashmere Shawl, India, 1810-20
Red cashmere twill, rectangular shape. Courtesy of the Kyoto Costume Institute.
Dress, Europe, c. 1818
The elaborate puffing and dropped shoulders reflect the fashion forward nature of clothing from the Continent. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, Europe, c. 1818
Elaborately puffed cotton. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, Europe, c. 1818
Elaborately puffed cotton. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, Europe, c. 1818
Elaborately puffed cotton. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, Europe, c. 1818
OMG. So puffy! Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, America, c. 1818
This dress, of Clarence-blue silk twill, reveals the international influences on American fashion, in both its color and the disposition of its finely applied satin trimming. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, America, c. 1818
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, America, c. 1818
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, America, c. 1818
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, America, c. 1818
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, America, c. 1818
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Silk Ball Gown, America, c. 1820
The puffed sleeves of this dress, a reinterpretation of 16th-century slashing, are an indication to the historicism in dress at the time. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Silk Ball Gown, America, c. 1820
Detail of the elaborate Renaissance inspired sleeves. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dinner Dress, Britain, c. 1820
Silk and cotton. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dinner Dress, Britain, c. 1820
Silk and cotton. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Dress, America, 1820
Cotton with intricate puff detailing and removable long sleeves (one surviving). Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Dress, America, 1820
Cotton with intricate puff detailing and removable long sleeves (one surviving). Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Evening Dress, America, 1820
Cotton with intricate puff detailing and removable long sleeves (one surviving). Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, Britain, c. 1820
There are indications that the dress was remade from an earlier costume (late 18th century). The implicit luxury of the chiné silk and the small repeat in the neo-classical taste allowed the textile’s persistence into new dress forms. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, Britain, c. 1820
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, Britain, c. 1820
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, Britain, c. 1820
Detail of pattern in the silk. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, Britain, c. 1820
Detail of sculptural hem detail, a hallmark of late Regency style. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, Britain, c. 1820
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Dress, Britain, c. 1820
Detachable sleeves. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Mourning Dress, Britain, 1820
This silk mourning dress incorporates the puffed sleeves and ornate hem details that defined 1820s fashions. Silk satins, taffetas, and velvet, considered too glossy and sumptuous for the first stage of mourning, were permitted later. Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Mourning Dress, Britain, 1820
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Mourning Dress, Britain, 1820
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Picture 009
Picture 009
Picture 005
Picture 005
Picture 006
Picture 006
[#Beginning of Shooting Data Section]
Nikon D50
2006/12/21 15:52:00.2
Compressed RAW (12-bit)
Image Size: Large (3008 x 2000)
Lens: 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6 G
Focal Length: 48mm
Exposure Mode: Manual
Metering Mode: Center-Weighted
1/125 sec - F/9
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 800
Optimize Image: Custom
White Balance: Auto
AF Mode: AF-A
Flash Sync Mode: Not Attached
Color Mode: Mode II (Adobe RGB)
Tone Comp.: User-Defined Custom Curve
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Enhanced
Sharpening: None
Image Comment: Brooklyn Museum Costume Project
Long Exposure NR: Off
[#End of Shooting Data Section]
[#Beginning of Shooting Data Section]
Nikon D50
2006/12/21 15:52:00.2
Compressed RAW (12-bit)
Image Size: Large (3008 x 2000)
Lens: 18-55mm F/3.5-5.6 G
Focal Length: 48mm
Exposure Mode: Manual
Metering Mode: Center-Weighted
1/125 sec - F/9
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 800
Optimize Image: Custom
White Balance: Auto
AF Mode: AF-A
Flash Sync Mode: Not Attached
Color Mode: Mode II (Adobe RGB)
Tone Comp.: User-Defined Custom Curve
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Enhanced
Sharpening: None
Image Comment: Brooklyn Museum Costume Project
Long Exposure NR: Off
[#End of Shooting Data Section]
[#Beginning of Shooting Data Section]
Nikon D50
2007/03/15 13:46:32.9
Compressed RAW (12-bit)
Image Size: Large (3008 x 2000)
Lens: 55-200mm F/4-5.6 G
Focal Length: 80mm
Exposure Mode: Manual
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/100 sec - F/10
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 800
Optimize Image: Normal
White Balance: Auto
AF Mode: AF-S
Flash Sync Mode:
Flash Mode:
Auto Flash Comp:
Color Mode: Mode IIIa (sRGB)
Tone Comp.: Auto
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Normal
Sharpening: Auto
Image Comment:
Long Exposure NR: Off
[#End of Shooting Data Section]
[#Beginning of Shooting Data Section]
Nikon D50
2007/03/15 13:46:32.9
Compressed RAW (12-bit)
Image Size: Large (3008 x 2000)
Lens: 55-200mm F/4-5.6 G
Focal Length: 80mm
Exposure Mode: Manual
Metering Mode: Multi-Pattern
1/100 sec - F/10
Exposure Comp.: 0 EV
Sensitivity: ISO 800
Optimize Image: Normal
White Balance: Auto
AF Mode: AF-S
Flash Sync Mode:
Flash Mode:
Auto Flash Comp:
Color Mode: Mode IIIa (sRGB)
Tone Comp.: Auto
Hue Adjustment: 0°
Saturation: Normal
Sharpening: Auto
Image Comment:
Long Exposure NR: Off
[#End of Shooting Data Section]
Picture 006
Picture 006
Picture 004
Picture 004
Cloak and Dress, 1813-1817
Brown silk cloak over an embroidered white dress. Photograph by Mandy Reynolds of Fotoforum.
Courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute and many others, hopefully someday to be identified.
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